Sport climbing first developed as a type of alpinism and only later formed into an independent sport discipline. Climbing, which was always regarded as an extremely dangerous activity, has become a relatively safe undertaking with the development of its equipment.
Climbing takes places both on artificial walls and natural rock climbing areas. One such climbing wall is the Lutne Skale climbing area near Cerkno.
You climb on climbing routes, a pre-determined area in the rock where the climber ascends. The routes are protected with bolts, which both protect and indicate the route’s approximate course. The lengths of the routes vary, from a few meters, usually half a rope-length (35 m), but also up to a few rope-lengths. The route is equipped by a route equipper, who fixes the protection bolts and the anchor. This person is usually also the first to climb the route, name it, and suggest its degree of difficulty.
The mountainous and karstic terrain offers many possibilities for climbing. Many climbing areas were formed in the rugged terrain. Apart from mighty rocks there are also a lot of caves, which attract cavers. The Šebrelje plateau is therefore home to quite a few amateur, but also professional climbers or alpinists. Among them were also the already deceased Slavko Svetičič – nicknamed Slavc – and Robert Černilogar, who were both taken by the mountains in their young years. These climbers also trained climbing on the overhanging wall called Kuncl, which can be seen from far away in the valley, and on the frozen waterfall called Padstanajca in winter. The most well-known climbing area near the plateau, however, is Lutne Skale.
Source: website TD Šebrelje, activities – climbing
Lutne Skale is a nice shady climbing area above the Kazarska Grapa gorge, which is full of natural sights – a natural bridge, river beds, rapids, pools, and tufa layers. It is located near a road, which rises up from the valley of Idrijca at the village of Reka towards the village of Bukovo, at the turnoff for the village of Police. The climbing area has 46 routes from the easiest to the most difficult degree of difficulty – the degrees of difficulty namely go as high as level 9! The routes are mainly evenly overhanging and go across steep stone slabs. Most of the routes were recently equipped with new glue-in bolts and anchors. The best time to visit the climbing area is from early spring to late autumn. Summer climbing is nice, as most of the routes ascend in the shade of trees. After heavy rains it is better to be careful and wait for a few days for the rock to dry.
Climbing is led by experienced alpinistic instructors, who gained their experience by climbing in the Himalayas, Peru, the Alps, and elsewhere in the world.
The climbing is interesting, pleasant, and most of all “mountainous” … You can find anything from slabs to cracks, various steps and holds, and precipitous overhangs.
Source: Tina Kastelic, blog Razgrajamo naokoli
Access: the climbing area is located in the Kozarška Grapa or Kazarska Grapa gorge, in close proximity of the Reka-Bukovo local road. Drive on the Idrija-Tolmin regional road until you reach the exit for the Bukovo village. At the village of Reka turn towards Bukovo. After a little more than 2 km of driving there is a parking lot on the left side before the crossroads for the Police village.
More info at: www.aocerkno.com